An Apology with Cinnamon Buns

You should be seeing a delicious Dimply Plum Cake here, since that is today’s Tuesdays with Dorie recipe, but I’m in the midst of a food-related allergic reaction that has turned my bottom lip into something that could be entered in the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade. So, I will not be introducing anything semi-unusual into my diet until The Lip leaves the building. Seriously, how does Angelina Jolie drink coffee with these things?

Anyway, a few weeks ago, I made Peter Reinhart’s Cinnamon Buns. Once upon a time, I made cinnamon rolls for a living, so when I saw that the Daring Bakers had tried this recipe, I wanted to give it a go. Plus, the day we got married, I promised Jeff I would always make him cinnamon rolls, just like the ones I brought him every weekend from the bakery. Almost nine months later, it was time to make good.

Reinhart’s sweet yeasted dough came together beautifully in the mixer. His recipe offers a range in the amount of whole milk or buttermilk to add to the dough. You’ll need less liquid when the humidity is high – a fact of baking that drives a lot of people crazy. Just add the milk slowly, and look for the dough to start forming a ball. Don’t panic if you add too much; just toss in a little more flour to balance things. Then mix the dough for about 10 minutes. You’ll know it’s ready when it comes together, feels smooth and slightly tacky (not sticky) and can be lifted easily out of the mixer without scraping or profanity.

After the dough has doubled in size (about two hours), you’ll roll it into a rectangle and sprinkle the filling over the top. Reinhart’s recipe calls for a simple cinnamon sugar filling on bare dough, but the next time I make these, I’ll brush melted butter over the dough before adding the filling (and increase the filling from 1/2 cup of cinnamon sugar to 3/4 cup). I admire Reinhart’s restraint, but I like my cinnamon rolls gooey.  Good enough to regret later.

Slicing the roll of dough into buns can be intimidating. I like to spray a little water along the seam and gently press the flap of dough to keep it from opening while I’m slicing. Roll the seam onto the table, and grab something to measure the buns. If you’re feeling anal, grab a ruler and mark the slices with a knife. If you’re in a hurry, grab a McCormick tin and use the edge to measure the buns. I slice mine with a bench scraper, but you could use dental floss, a chef’s knife or a serrated knife. Find the one that works for you.

So, after all the mixing, fermenting, rolling and slicing, the moment is finally here. The moment of supreme anticipation, when you slide the baking sheet into the oven and wait for the house to fill with the scent of cinnamon and sugar. I love that moment. I love how the whispered scent of “something’s baking” builds into a shout that calls everyone to the kitchen, starving for cinnamon buns even if they’ve just had a meal.

If only carrots and cauliflower smelled like cinnamon and sugar …

Straight out of the oven, these buns required discipline I didn’t know I had to wait 10 minutes before glazing them. If your constitution is particularly weak and you just HAVE to glaze them early, be careful about handling the hot cinnamon sugar. As in, don’t. “Sticky” and “burning” are a bad combination.

Since Reinhart’s cinnamon sugar filling was a little skimpy, I topped the buns with a thick layer of cream cheese glaze. I’m sure it’s good for the environment. Cream cheese, butter, powdered sugar and vanilla, beaten within an inch of their lives. Perfect for liberally smearing onto rows of waiting cinnamon buns. By the time I had the first one glazed, Jeff had vaulted from the garage across the basement up the stairs and into the kitchen. That smell! Nothing short of man-catching.

With the holidays approaching soon enough, it’s the perfect time to teach yourself how to make cinnamon rolls. Yes, there are many instructions, and the process is a little time-consuming. But people will look at you with the sort of unbridled joy typically reserved for babies, puppies, Santa and Pamela Anderson. That look, and the rush of footsteps on the stairs, make the entire process worth it. That and the cream cheese.

Cinnamon Buns

From Peter Reinhart’s “The Bread Baker’s Apprentice”

Makes 8-12 large or 12-16 smaller buns

  • 6 1/2 tablespoons (3.25 ounces) granulated sugar
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 5 1/2 tablespoons (2.75 ounces) shortening or unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 1 large egg, slightly beaten
  • 1 teaspoon lemon extract or zest
  • 3 1/2 cups (16 ounces) unbleached bread or all-purpose flour
  • 2 teaspoons (.22 ounce) instant yeast
  • 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 cups (9 to 10 ounces) whole milk or buttermilk, room temperature
  • 1/2 cup (4 ounces) cinnamon sugar (6 1/2 tablespoon granulated sugar plus 1 1/2 tablespoons cinnamon

1. Cream together the sugar, salt, and shortening on medium-high speed in an electric mixer with a paddle attachment. Whip in the egg and lemon extract until smooth. Then add the flour, yeast, and milk. Mix on low speed until the dough forms a ball. Switch to the dough hook and increase the speed to medium, mixing for approximately 10 minutes, or until the dough is silky and supple, tacky but not sticky. Lightly oil a large bowl and transfer the dough to the bowl, rolling it around to cover it with oil. Cover bowl with plastic wrap.

2. Ferment at room temperature for approximately 2 hours, or until the dough doubles in size.

3. Mist the counter with spray oil and transfer the dough to the counter. Roll out the dough with a rolling pin, lightly dusting the top of the dough with flour. Roll it into a rectangle about 2/3 inch thick and 14 inches wide by 12 inches long for larger buns, or 18 inches wide by 9 inches long for smaller buns. Sprinkle the cinnamon sugar over the surface of the dough and roll the dough up into a cigar-shaped log, creating a spiral as you roll. With the seam side down, cut the dough into 8 to 12 even pieces, each about 1 3/4 inches thick for larger buns; or 12 to 16 pieces each 1 1/4 inch thick for smaller buns.

4. Line 1 or more sheet pans with baking parchment. Place the buns approximately 1/2 inch apart so that they aren’t touching but are close to one another.

5. Proof at room temperature for 75 to 90 minutes, or until the pieces have grown into one another and have nearly doubled in size. You may also retard the shaped buns in the refrigerator for up to 2 days, pulling the pans out of the refrigerator 3 to 4 hours before baking to allow the dough to proof.

6. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F with the oven rack on the middle shelf.

7. Bake the buns for 20 to 30 minutes, or until golden brown.

8. Cool the buns in the pan for about 10 minutes and then  glaze the tops. Remove the buns from the pans and place them on a cooling rack. Wait at least 20 minutes before serving.

Cinnamon Bun Glaze

From Molly Wizenberg, Bon Appétit, March 2008

  • 4 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
  • 1 cup powdered sugar
  • 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Combine cream cheese, powdered sugar, butter, and vanilla in medium bowl. Using electric mixer, beat until smooth. Spread glaze on rolls. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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Comments

  • Dana McCauley September 23rd, 2008 at 2:52 pm

    Nice buns, lady! (I mean that will all due respect of course.)

    Sorry you are having allergic reactions. Did you try benadryl? My hubby, who is very allergic to legumaceous nuts and less allergic to legumes, keeps both an epi pen and liquid benadryl in his desk, his car and at home.

  • Audrey September 23rd, 2008 at 3:09 pm

    These look wonderul - and your pictures are so well done. All the dimply plum cakes are a just little bit jealous.

  • CB September 23rd, 2008 at 3:12 pm

    You poor thing! Allergies aren’t fun. I guess there are worse things than Angelina lips but I hope you get back to your coffee-loving-thin-lipped self soon. ;)
    PS. I just made that amazing brown sugar salmon from your blog. OHMYGOD. Fan-FREAKING-tastic! Thanks for sharing the recipe! :)
    Clara @ iheartfood4thought

  • kim September 23rd, 2008 at 3:18 pm

    absolutely delectable buns :) hope you feel better soon!

  • chocolatechic September 23rd, 2008 at 3:28 pm

    Sorry about your lip.

    The cake is luscious.

  • Lori September 23rd, 2008 at 3:28 pm

    apology accepted. :) once my face swelled up so enormously, the doctor had to hide me in the back room instead of the waiting room because i was scaring young children. thank you, oil of olay. allergies suck.

  • Brooke September 23rd, 2008 at 3:53 pm

    Wow — this looks delish. Love your photos, my tastebuds are watering.

  • Di September 23rd, 2008 at 4:01 pm

    Okay, now you’ve got me wanting to make cinnamon buns. =) After all, it’s fall, and time for all things cinnamon. I’ve made Reinhart’s recipe, and really enjoyed them.

  • Tracey September 23rd, 2008 at 4:27 pm

    My goodness….that first picture is stunning!! I love homemade cinnamon buns but I’m not sure mine have ever looked that good.

  • Laura September 23rd, 2008 at 5:10 pm

    Ugh - so sorry to hear about your allergy (a couple of my little ones suffer from food allergies - I know what a pain it can be trying totrack down the culprit). Those buns look so much better than my dimply plum cake! I have had that same cookbook for over a year now and haven’t made a thing in it yet - these may well be the first. Yummy!

  • Robin Sue September 23rd, 2008 at 6:15 pm

    Incredible!! That picture is the best. I love Cin Buns and my recipe is suffering so I think I will adopt yours. Thanks!

  • steph (whisk/spoon) September 23rd, 2008 at 7:36 pm

    i totally accept your apology with these! so sorry to hear about your fat lip…yikes!

  • Michelle from Baken September 23rd, 2008 at 7:37 pm

    Wow, those buns are inspirational! I need to make them.

    I hope your lips get back to normal soon.

  • Shari September 23rd, 2008 at 8:28 pm

    So sorry to hear about your lip, but these buns look amazing! Hope you’re back to normal soon.

  • Cathy September 23rd, 2008 at 9:03 pm

    Yikes — sorry about your lip! Hope you get to the bottom of that. I SO want to learn how to make these buns, but they truly scare the bejeezus out of me. I will read and reread your post to try to build up the courage to attempt them. I DO want to be greeted with unbridled joy, and I figure I have a better chance of learning how to make cinnamon buns than I do of ever looking like Pamela Anderson.

  • food librarian September 23rd, 2008 at 9:16 pm

    Holy smokes! This is beautiful (and sorry about your lip!!)

  • pamela September 23rd, 2008 at 9:19 pm

    Hope your lip is back to normal again, soon! These are positively scrumptious looking! Fabulous.

  • Sandy S September 23rd, 2008 at 9:23 pm

    Your pictures make me feel like crying - seriously, those cinnamon rolls look *that* good!! I’m sorry to hear about your allergic reaction, that can be really scary, but if it’s not a serious danger, maybe you can take the opportunity to hole up with a pan of those gorgeous cinnamon buns until the swelling goes down. Cream cheese frosting has amazing curative properties, I’m sure. :)

  • AnneStrawberry September 23rd, 2008 at 10:41 pm

    Wow, they look amazing! Good luck with the food allergies… we are working on that with my son and figuring them out in killer! But seriously… I’m going to have to go make those. Now.

  • brilynn September 23rd, 2008 at 11:17 pm

    The smell of cinnamon buns baking is truly one of the greatest on earth!

  • evince September 24th, 2008 at 2:17 am

    Wow those look wonderful. I tried out Peter Reinhardt’s recipe too but found that the end result was a little bit bread-y rather than soft as I had expected. Perhaps it was due to the lower fat content? Or did you use any other substitutions?

    Thanks and great job :)

  • Rosa September 24th, 2008 at 8:24 am

    OMG, they look wonderful! A scrumptious treat! To die for!!!

    Cheers,

    Rosa

  • Michael Natkin September 24th, 2008 at 9:10 am

    I think you may have the greatest blog name ever.

  • pink bowl September 24th, 2008 at 9:55 am

    I dont know which I admire most, your cooking/baking skills, your photography or your creative and fun to read writing style! After printing off this recipe to try today, I dived into the rest of your recipes and can’t seem to tear myself away to get started on these beauties! Thank you!

  • Lydia H. September 24th, 2008 at 10:17 am

    How beautiful…The buns look so quaint, wonderful.

  • TnTrash September 24th, 2008 at 11:08 am

    I am so lucky and have eaten old Ezra’s cinnamon rolls. They are absolutely wonderful and if you eat more than five, you will be down for the count. They rate right next to school cafeteria ones, that, after all are the gold standard for cinnamon rolls served with chili, cheese toast and a carrot stick.

  • Just Cook It September 24th, 2008 at 11:41 am

    Oh man, they look AMAZING

  • Madam Chow September 24th, 2008 at 12:34 pm

    I can relate to the food allergy thing - I seem to be getting more sensitive as I get older!

  • The Wind Attack September 24th, 2008 at 2:05 pm

    That is one of the nicest looking cinnamon buns I’ve seen in a long time!

  • Keetha September 24th, 2008 at 3:07 pm

    I’m sorry about the allergic reaction but I’m quite happy about the cinnamon roll recipe and tutorial. And photo. Yummy food porn.

  • Hilary September 24th, 2008 at 3:48 pm

    Sorry about your lip! I wish I had one of your cinnamon rolls right now!

  • Michelle September 24th, 2008 at 5:19 pm

    I love the look of these scrumptios rolls..yum. I hope your lip is getting better.

  • Carol Peterman September 24th, 2008 at 8:34 pm

    My husband would have preferred I made cinnamon buns over plum cake. These look fantastic! I may have to make him some this weekend to finish off his birthday month celebrations.

  • Zoë François September 24th, 2008 at 9:35 pm

    Absolutely lovely and addicting I’m sure.

  • Prudy September 25th, 2008 at 9:04 am

    NO apology needed when you’ve got cinnamon rolls like that. I love buttermilk in my baked goods so I’d love to try these. Get better soon.

  • Rachel September 25th, 2008 at 10:19 am

    Cinnamon buns are something I have wanted to tackle for quite a while, but I’ve always been a bit wary (read: terrified) to make them. But your look so delicious I think I’m finally going to give them a try! I just started my own blog and I am so inspired by your photos! Hope your lip is feeling better.

  • My Sweet & Saucy September 25th, 2008 at 6:04 pm

    Oh my…now that looks sinfully delicious!

  • LyB September 25th, 2008 at 7:28 pm

    “people will look at you with the sort of unbridled joy typically reserved for babies, puppies, Santa and Pamela Anderson” LOL! I am so making cinnamon buns this weekend. :)

  • Erin September 25th, 2008 at 8:33 pm

    These look fabulous! Homemade cinnamon rolls are the best. I made these a while ago and my husband constantly requests them!

  • Dee September 25th, 2008 at 8:44 pm

    I’m not sure how I ended up here, but what’s even more puzzling is how your beautiful blog has been keep a secret from me. Web conspiracy?

    I’m sorry about the allergy, although I could certainly do with an Angelinaesque pout these days.

    Your rolls look fabulous! I keep saying I want to make them but my Bookmarked Recipes folder is a scary place to visit these days. I’ll just bookmark these and pray.

  • Esther September 25th, 2008 at 11:08 pm

    WOW! Those look perfect!

  • JacqueOH September 26th, 2008 at 10:42 pm

    Oh. My. Goodness…

    does that ever look sinful? I’m having a hard time coming up with words to describe how delicious this looks.

    Wow…

  • AmyRuth September 26th, 2008 at 10:42 pm

    Oh My Gosh! I’m from the south and cinnamon “buns” or rolls as we call them are enough to make me melt, give up all promises to stay away from sugar (all to make the running easier). Yes that perfectly unbridled abandon when the scent of cinnamon, sugar and butter hits your nose. YMMMM Thanks for sharing and I hope you feel better soon : ))

  • Annette September 29th, 2008 at 10:48 am

    Cinnamon buns beat out Dimply Plum Cake every time! Wow. Those looks amazing. I’ve never made them before, but I’m definitely going to now. Thanks for sharing the recipe. :) I hope your lip is getting better.

  • Beth September 29th, 2008 at 9:27 pm

    Oh, I feel your pain! I had the very same allergic reaction with my bottom lip once. Woke up in the middle of the night and thought “Hmmm…what’s that on my chin?” Turned out to be my huge Sherman Clump-esque lip! I actually had to go to the ER and get shot up with steriods, which brought down the swelling in 24 hours. Good luck with yours - and I love love love your blog!

  • Jeni September 29th, 2008 at 10:14 pm

    Ack! I KNOW whatyou mean about allergies! I’m allergic to soy and the first time I drank soy milk, my throat and lips swelled. Scary! I love your pictures and this dessert looks WAAAY good.

  • Teanna September 30th, 2008 at 12:30 pm

    With buns like that, there need be no apology. OK, I’m sure you received a lot of comments on “bun” innuendos, but seriously. SERIOUSLY. I’d pay lots of money for those. Lots and lots. That is absolutely GORGEOUS. My mouth is watering.

  • Nicole September 30th, 2008 at 6:34 pm

    These look absolutely amazing! You are a great photographer.

  • Jaime September 30th, 2008 at 9:15 pm

    mmmm i love cinnamon rolls! those are making me drool…

  • Mari October 1st, 2008 at 9:35 am

    I’m trying to keep myself from licking the screen and at the same time I’m calculating how the hell you can get these made for breakfast?!? I think you have to get up at 4 am or some such rot, in order to have them 10am. Not fair!

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