Kids put ketchup on everything: French fries, scrambled eggs, hamburgers, hot dogs, chicken fingers. I always wondered why until I read Malcolm Gladwell’s article, “The Ketchup Conundrum.” Basically, ketchup (specifically, Heinz) hits all of our fundamental tastes: sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami. It pushes our “primal buttons.” So, when a child is faced with something new to eat, very often he coats it in a food he trusts: ketchup.

When I’m making something new for dinner, I don’t slide a barrel of ketchup next to the table, but I do pair the unfamiliar with something everyone trusts: the infinitely versatile potato (aka “tater”).

I love these Lemon-Scented Potatoes, because the flavor is spicy and surprisingly bright, and they go with everything. No need for butter, cheese or sour cream when you’ve got a cinnamon stick, cumin, lemon juice and cilantro. Great with Indian and Mexican. Responsible for saving me from the Chinese mahogany chicken disaster of February ‘08.

Lemon-Scented Potatoes

From “Martha Stewart Living” (December/January 1996)

• 4 medium all-purpose potatoes (1 1/2 pounds), peeled
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 three-inch cinnamon stick
• 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 cup homemade or low-sodium canned chicken stock, skimmed of fat
• 2 tablespoons roughly chopped cilantro

1. Cut potatoes in half, then cut each half into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Pour oil into large nonstick skillet, and place over medium heat. When oil is hot, add cinnamon stick and cumin; cook, stirring, for 30 seconds.

2. Add the potatoes, and season with salt and pepper; raise heat to high. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are golden brown on both sides, 6 to 7 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice and chicken stock, add salt and pepper to taste, cover, and reduce heat to medium low. Cook the potatoes until very tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Toss in the cilantro, and transfer to a serving dish.

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